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de ekologiska bomullsprocesserna
Från frö till färdigt plagg
I 7000 år har vi använt bomull till kläder
Bomull har använts av människor i 7000 år för kläder. Det enda som behövs är sol, vatten och bördig jord för att producera bomull. Från det planterade fröet tar det cirka 25 veckor tills bomullsknoppen naturligt delar på sig och kan skördas.
I ekologisk bomullsproduktion använder man inte kemikalier eller gödningsmedel i odlingsprocessen. Mindre än 1% av världens bomullsproduktion är ekologisk. Jag kommer att försöka beskriva processen på ett mycket enkelt sätt. Nu kör vi…
Odling
I Indien börjar denna process varje år vanligtvis runt april. Skördeperioden är från oktober till januari. De viktigaste bomullsproducerande länderna är USA, Kina, Indien och Pakistan.
“Jag önskar det funnits elgitarrer på bomullsfälten på den gamla goda tiden. Många saker hade löst sig då..”
– Jimi Hendrix
Bomullsplantorna delas snart och är redo för skörd
Bomull redo för plockning. Det finns främst 3 typer av bomull som används för kommersiell användning. Lång-, medium- och kortfibrig.
Typen på bilderna är långfibrig bomull som anses vara den bästa kvaliteten. Alla BLIGHTs kläder är gjorda av denna typ av bomull.
Den ekologiske odlaren sätter naturen i centrum genom att:
Slösar inte med resurser
Inte slösa med naturresurser så att miljön påverkas så lite som möjligt.
Bevara
Bevarande av markens bördighet långsiktigt.
Återvinna
Skapa största möjliga återvinning av näringsämnen
Plockning
Plockning av bomull görs manuellt och tar mycket arbetskraft. Denna process varar i upp till tre månader. Monsunen börjar i mitten av juni i Gujarat-regionen.
Ekologiska bomullskläder
Här är ett exempel på hur en organisk t-shirt ser ut. Denna t-shirt är inte färgad alls. Det är bomullens naturliga färg. Naturligt och organiskt
Balar
Efter plockningen packas bomullen i balar. Varje bal väger cirka 100 kg.
Här syns balar redo att spinnas efter rensningsprocessen. Sedan torkas och rengörs bomullen.
Kamning
Kamningsprocessen. Förbereds för att räknas och spinnas. Fortfarande ett tag innan de ekologiska kläderna kan produceras.
Willie Nelson
“I was influenced a lot by those around me – there was a lot of singing that went on in the cotton fields.”
B-LIGHT - Ekologiska kläder
Räkning och koning
Denna process kallas räkning. Garnets storlek definieras av dess vikt och finhet.
SPINNING
This is the last process for the yarn. Once the yarn is ready the knitting or weaving can start. Since the invention of “Spinning Jenny” year 1764 the technology has made huge progress. Spinning Jenny made it possible for one worker to handle 8 spools simultaneously.
The modern spinning machine handles hundreds of spools and are also managed by one person. I think James Hargreaves, inventor of Spinning Jenny, would be quite impressed.
Modern spinning machine
Spinning Jenny from 1764
KNITTING
In the middle of the machine you can see part of the fabric. Until the first cut it has the shape of a tube. A fantastic machine!
After the spinning process you get yarn. Yarn can be used with different methods to produce fabric. Weaving and knitting are the most common. The finishing process includes cleaning and dying and sometimes printing.
The process for dying organic is called Low Impact which means saving water and not using chemicals.
Knitting machine
Did you know that…
The certifying company for organic cotton is called Global Organic Textile Standard or GOTS. On their web page you will find the following criteria:
Separated
At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fibre products and must to be clearly identified
Chemicals
All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminabilityd
Heavy Metals
Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes
Synthetics
The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals.
Bleaches
Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching)
Dying
Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited.
printing
Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited.
PVC
Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted)
policy
All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimise waste and discharges
water
Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.
packaging
Packaging material must not contain PVC. Paper or cardboard used in packaging material, hang tags, swing tags etc. must be recycled or certified according to FSC or PEFC
• THE SEWING FACTORY
In the middle of the machine you can see part of the fabric. Until the first cut it has the shape of a tube. A fantastic machine!
After the spinning process you get yarn. Yarn can be used with different methods to produce fabric. Weaving and knitting are the most common. The finishing process includes cleaning and dying and sometimes printing.
The process for dying organic is called Low Impact which means saving water and not using chemicals.
Fabric Cutting
Sewing
Finishing department
How do I know that the manufacturer follow the GOTS rules?
Because of the Quality Assurance System from GOTS:
A company participating in the GOTS certification scheme must work in compliance with all criteria of the standard. GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing.
Some GOTS facts
![b-light-organic-clothes-farmer-icon-1-green-e1520433984365[1]](https://b-light.se/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/b-light-organic-clothes-farmer-icon-1-green-e15204339843651.png){kind=icon}
Certified Farming
Fibre producers (farmers) must be certified according to a recognised international or national organic farming standard that is accepted in the country where the final product will be sold.
ISO
Certifiers of fibre producers must be internationally recognised through ISO 65/17065, NOP and/or IFOAM accreditation. – They also must be accredited to certify according to the applicable fibre standard
Post Harvest Handling
Operators from post-harvest handling up to garment making and traders have to undergo an onsite annual inspection cycle and must hold a valid GOTS scope certificate applicable for the production / trade of the textiles to be certified
GOTS accreditation
Certifiers of processors, manufacturers and traders must be internationally accredited according to ISO 65/17065 and must hold a ‘GOTS accreditation’ in accordance with the rules as defined in the ‘Approval Procedure and Requirements for Certification Bodies’
